Why stop off in Tobarra to sample bluefin tuna?
Summary:
It makes a comforting staging post for summer holidaymakers from central Spain who opt to unwind on the coast of Murcia. It also has a drumming ceremony entered on the World Heritage List (held during Easter, 104 hours of incessant percussion starting on Good Friday, a Guinness record) and is the home of the DO Jumilla region, producing voluptuous wines from its Monastrell grapes.
Aside from these attractions, the town of Tobarra in Albacete province may now be considered a gastronomic staging post for lovers of culinary travel. At their Frontera restaurant they serve outstanding bluefin tuna, well worth the journey simply for the exquisitely skilled way in which they prepare it.
The Martínez Bleda brothers, heart and soul of Frontera
In charge of an establishment which stands at the meeting point of three districts, hence its name: the Martínez Bleda brothers. Carmelo front of house; Antonio in the kitchen, backed up by other members of a family dynasty that first founded the venue back in 1980 as a humble village inn, serving tapas and beers. The quality and service have now moved up a few notches, with Antonio Martínez serving up traditional dishes from La Mancha in a contemporary tavern style: soupy rice with chicken and rabbit, lamb, careta de cerdo, migas, pisto and gazpacho. Bluefin tuna has nonetheless made a space for itself on the menu of this inland establishment.
“I like to say that we are in the south of Albacete… or the north of Murcia. The sea is fairly close by. We started working with Fuentes because Ricardo Fuentes Senior, the founder of the company, was a customer here when he visited the property he had on the outskirts of the village. And so our fondness for tuna dates back to the year 2000. The tuna steak in escabeche was the first dish I made with this ingredient, something I learned when studying at Bellamar, in Marbella. It’s a real house special, always featured on the menu. It has a rosemary escabeche marinade with escalivada roast vegetables, peanut cream and honey vinaigrette,” Antonio explains by way of introduction before laying a wonderfully tempered piece of tuna belly over the coals.
Competition-level bluefin tuna tapas
“We sear it on each side for 30 seconds, like a Japanese tataki. All it needs is a little salt sprinkled over it. Sometimes we serve it with a romescu or chimichurri sauce on the side, and always with baby vegetables as a garnish,” the restaurateur recounts. Like all his relatives, he was born in the village, and has a real love of cooking to scale, having submitted entries in the last two editions of Gourmet Tapa by Fuentes.
The previous year he presented the jury with his Cartagena bluefin tuna cheek with quince and shallot, while back in April he demonstrated his talent with an outstanding tuna harmonica tartar. “My family always encourage me to compete, above all my brother, who is the one who signs me up and keeps track of the whole thing, although I do love going,” the chef admits.
This tucked-away village of 7,000 people relies mainly on agriculture and livestock farming (pistachio is currently the boom crop), while the Tamborrada drumming ceremony at Easter increases the population five-fold. A great time to show off all the virtues of the bluefin tuna. “As it’s during Lent, rather than salt cod we serve up a tuna casserole, a marmitako,” Antonio recalls. “And we use the ‘pork cheeks of the sea’, in other words tuna cheeks, to make another casserole. I simmer down the tuna stock with the backbone for hours on end, just like a meat stock. We use January quince, which we like to preserve in jars, creamed potato, and then that tuna stock served around it”.
Flavourful events.
Our revered fish has even found its way into the catering service and events organised by the Martínez family at the nearby Garcimar estate, which hosts all manner of mass festive celebrations. “The tuna steak in escabeche is around 80-90 grammes of meat. Imagine we have a thousand people, that means that in a week we could get through 110 kg at the height of the season,” acknowledges Antonio, one of the group of regional chefs recognised under the Culinary Roots branding.
Making its living from tourists passing through and business lunches, Frontera is very clear about the hallmarks that have led to its success. Fresh products handled well in the kitchen plus friendly service. Front of house where Carmelo is always on hand, there are excellent wines from easily recognisable estates, with a firm preference for the Monastrell variety.
To whet the appetite at this borderland establishment, what could be better than tartar with guacamole, bean shoots and a few dabs of cheese cream, along with an aged Jumilla, full of fruit and sharpness? As we bid our farewells, he has one last wish. “When we open the new estate we will do a tuna butchery. I’ll bring in chefs from around the region, people from the sector, the press… It will be a New Year event. You’re invited.” I eagerly take up the gauntlet at this imposing, succulent and inviting place in La Mancha.
