El Doncel: bluefin tuna 1,000 m above sea level
A logbook by Sensei Hiroshi Umi. He gives off the aura of days gone by, out of the ordinary, like a man of the Golden Age, veteran of a thousand battles, arising from a literary world. A rakishly piratical beard, professorial glasses, sharp...
Koshihikari: why this rice for this bluefin tuna
The staple of half of humanity, the central core of nutrition and the bedrock of so many store cupboards. More than 500 million tonnes are harvested each year around the world, with our Chinese neighbours the global leaders in terms of prod...
Sharaku: hidden island, supreme nigiri
A logbook by Sensei Hiroshi Umi. One of the most reassuring experiences for the nomadic, investigative, analytical, gluttonous and loquacious guild of culinary critics is for our taste buds to come across some unsuspected discovery. The few...
Hermanos Vinagre, or why bluefin tuna is a sublime tapa
I first set foot in Spain as a gastronomic correspondent back in 1989. And what my bosses got me to explore to begin with was what I then defined as holy ground: the bars of Madrid. Notebook in hand, my bewildered face betraying my stupefac...
Nippon 2: a quixotic story and a cult sushiman
“My name is Yuho Matsushita. I was born in the south of Japan, in Kagoshima province, 57 years ago. It is 30 years since I moved to Spain. I came to the Barcelona Olympic Games in 1992, because I love athletics. I got my ticket and saw Fe...
The flavourful and well-travelled history of Longino & Carde...
A logbook by Sensei Hiroshi Umi. Their motto says it all, like jewellers crafting gems and precious stones found in far-flung corners of the globe, whether in open-cast mines, sea beds, volcanoes or shadowy grottos: “Rare and precious...