Spectacle, jungle and plenty of bluefin tuna: welcome to SLVJ
Summary:
A logbook by Sensei Hiroshi Umi.
There are places that far surpass the culinary act. That become a happening in themselves, a celebration that extends beyond the quality of the product and the social enjoyment of sharing lunch, dinner or an afterwork gathering. Sophisticated and elaborate settings that still offer formidable cooking, and are a byword for rest and recreation, the instantaneous joy of the here and now. The most fundamental hedonism, in short, the most orgiastic pleasure attained through exotic recipes and local ingredients.
That is very much the blueprint of SLVJ. With a number of establishments around the world, having first originated in Panama, SLVJ has for some time been adding new layers to the concept of dinner show in the Spanish capital. We headed to its outpost on Madrid’s Calle Velázquez to take a snapshot of what it is up to right now, with our titan of the seas always centre stage.
SLVJ: the ultimate fusion of Japanese cuisine.
With painstaking interior design conveying its jungle essence, full of wildlife posing like framed aristocrats, and with warm, cosy lighting, SLVJ serves up the ultimate fusion of Japanese cuisine. Its philosophy is rooted in a melting pot which combines the techniques of my beloved homeland with fresh, high-quality ingredients. An equation which also brings in the influences of international cuisine, and the surprise effect of an ever-changing menu, perfectly in tune with the cocktail bar, along with dinner shows including choreography, tuna butchery demonstrations and live performances, which far from distracting diners, instead thoroughly complement the flavours.
The figure behind this whole sophisticated set-up (with branches in Bogotá, Miami, Dubai, Guatemala, Caracas, La Moraleja, Costa del Este, Valencia, Barcelona and Puerto Banús) is Fermín Azkue, of Spanish and Venezuelan heritage, chef-partner of SLVJ, who sets the culinary course followed by all the group’s establishments.
Born in the Basque country, he started work at the age of just 16, serving time in the kitchens of a fair few of Europe’s leading restaurants over the course of his career. “At SLVJ we represent the wild side of Japanese cuisine. Our philosophy is based on a fusion of traditional Japanese techniques with fresh, high-quality ingredients, incorporating international culinary influences.. We focus on serving up dishes full of flavour, with a constantly evolving menu to surprise our diners with new offerings”.
Spicy tuna, the star of the menu
“The success of our restaurants lies in the quality of the products we use, especially the bluefin tuna, and our dedication to offering a unique culinary experience. In our Sushi Bar we serve up rolls, makis, nigiris, sashimis and temakis, where the tuna stands out for its quality and freshness. We also have a Raw Bar section where we prepare uncooked dishes such as the Tuna Tiradito Caviar, allowing diners to enjoy the fish in its purest state,” Fermín explains.
One of the most popular dishes at SLVJ is the Spicy Tuna. This is a creative interpretation, filled with tuna, crunchy wonton, chives and a delicious spicy mayo, all topped with avocado and a unique tofu-feta base. A dish reflecting a brand philosophy that knows no boundaries and is really on the up, offering explosive and balanced taste sensations. Served in portions of eight, it has won itself a loyal following. “Depending on the number of diners and the season, we tend to get through around 30 kg of bluefin tuna a week. The volume varies, but we always make sure we deal with suppliers who can guarantee the very best quality and freshness,” Fermín adds.
Aside from this spicy morsel, the menu also features such delights as a sensational Tuna Tiradito Caviar, which comes with a tomato tartare, kizami wasabi, caviar and EVOO, plus a pinch of Maldon sea salt, as well as stupendous Chutoro, Otoro and Akami Nigiris, depending on the desired level of fattiness. As for pairings to embellish these flavours, the bar presents us with a Viking Cocktail, served in a drinking horn, a blend of vodka, ginger syrup, passion fruit, citrus and grapefruit soda. A wonderful draught to enhance the fattiness of the bluefin.
And as the hallmark of the establishment leans towards surprise and ceaseless reinvention, bluefin tuna constantly evolves at these eateries, places to see and be seen, and a bolthole for celebrities and influencers alike. “Bluefin tuna offers endless possibilities, and we are always looking to innovate and offer our patrons new experiences. We have already experimented with less conventional cuts such as chutoro, which lends our dishes unique texture and flavour. Such cuts allow us to come up with more sophisticated and surprising creations. What we love is to keep exploring new ways of presenting them, aiming at all times to innovate and enhance the gastronomic experience”. As the legendary Lou Reed sang, ‘take a walk on the wild side’.
